Environmentalists Fight Vineyards' Spread
ANNAPOLIS, Calif., Jan. 21, 2006
(AP) In the fog-shrouded forests of California's remote North Coast,
winemakers believe they've found the perfect terrain to grow the notoriously
fickle pinot noir grape prized by connoisseurs.
Vineyard developers are snapping up thousands of acres of redwoods and firs
in Sonoma County, with plans to clear the trees and plant the once-obscure
varietal made famous by the wine-fueled road trip film "Sideways."
Environmentalists and residents in Annapolis, a tiny town about 140 miles
north of San Francisco, are trying to rein in the pinot lovers. They're
fighting the conversion of timberlands into vineyards, which they say
destroys wildlife habitat, erodes the soil, contaminates the water with
pesticides and opens the door to development.
"If you've seen the movie, you've seen the glassy-eyed stare they have when
they talk about their plans to produce pinot noir up here," said resident
Chris Poehlmann, who opposes vineyard conversions. "We feel it's much more
important for future generations to have forests on these hills than wine
As demand for California wine grows, vintners are looking for new terrain
beyond traditional wine-growing regions such as the Napa and Sonoma valleys,
where available land is scarce and expensive.
Increasingly, developers are buying up land in remote, ecologically fragile
areas such as northwest Sonoma County, where roads and electricity are
available and land is relatively affordable. Many property owners here are
eager to turn their forests into vineyards because wine grapes, especially
for high-end pinot noir, are worth more than timber, which is increasingly
expensive to harvest due to stringent regulations.
Alarmed by the trend, Sonoma County supervisors are set to consider new
rules next month that would limit vineyard conversions on nearly 200,000
acres of forests.
"There are plenty of places to plant grapes in Sonoma County without cutting
down redwood forests," said Supervisor Mike Reilly, who advocates more
restrictions. "I think people have a special feeling for the redwood forests
here and they don't want to see them taken away."
Sonoma is just one of several Northern California counties trying to balance
the interests of the wine industry and the environment.
The latest battlefront is this sparsely populated region where a cool
climate and sandy soil offer ideal conditions to grow the delicate,
thin-skinned pinot noir grape.
"The vines are a bit stressed, so the fruit is more concentrated and
produces more intense flavors," said Barbara Scalabrini, who with her
husband opened the area's first winery _ Annapolis Winery _ about 20 years
After vintners declared northwest Sonoma County the "new terroir" for pinot
noir in the late 1990s, developers began buying up land and planting vines.
Kendall Jackson was the first major wine company to develop vineyards in the
area. About a dozen, mostly small, vineyards have opened since and more are
in the works.
The early vineyards were planted on former apple orchards, but most of that
land has already been replanted with grapes so landowners started applying
to turn their woodlands into vineyards.
The most ambitious _ and controversial _ project is Preservation Ranch.
Premium Pacific Vineyards purchased about 20,000 acres and wants to turn up
to 2,000 acres into vineyards, mostly on hills and ridges. The Napa
developer plans to use wine profits to restore forests on the remaining
"We believe this is going to be a model for how you can restore damaged,
wounded lands," said Richard Wollack, co-chief executive of Premium Pacific
A group of Annapolis residents formed Friends of the Gualala River and
teamed up with the Sierra Club and other environmental groups to protect the
forests. They say there isn't enough water to support more vineyards, which
pollute the river and soil and threaten salmon and other wildlife with
"We're not saying you shouldn't drink wine. We're saying there are more
appropriate lands to grow wine grapes on," said Keith Kaulum, a local Sierra
Currently, landowners who want to convert timberlands must apply for a
permit from the state Department of Forestry and Fire Protection, a process
that usually requires a rigorous series of environmental studies.
But environmentalists and local residents say permit standards are too lax.
Last year, environmental groups sued the agency for approving plans without
The proposed county ordinance would ban vineyards from displacing redwoods
and Douglas firs that produce high-quality wood products. Land with other
trees could be developed, but only if it benefits the public and the
landowner plants two acres of high-quality timberland for every acre of
Supervisor Reilly said Sonoma County would become the first California
county to regulate timberland conversions. Premium Pacific Vineyards has
endorsed the proposed rules, but opponents say the rules don't go far
"The county ordinance as it's written has been watered down to the point
where it really doesn't protect forests," said John Holland, president of
Friends of the Gualala River. "What's at stake is whether a redwood
ecosystem that's taken thousands of years to develop will exist or be
Some Sonoma County wine growers are worried that planting more pinot
vineyards could result in a glut of high-end wines.
Nick Frey, who heads the Sonoma County Grape Growers Association, said
10,000 of the county's 60,000 acres of vineyards already grow pinot noir
grapes ,and they face plenty of competition from Oregon, Washington and
British Columbia. He said wines over $25 a bottle only make up 4 percent of
the U.S. wine market, of which high-end pinot makes up only a tiny slice.
"We always have to remember that we're selling into a very small market,"
Frey said. "Pinot noir is really hot right now ... but that could change.
You could be one crop away from having excessive supply."